Reverse globalisation? Kolhapuri chappals, now brought to you by Prada

Prada's Kolhapuri chappals, now priced at Rs 1.16 lakh, spark debate on cultural appropriation as Indian craftsmanship is rebranded for luxury markets. Will India reclaim its narrative?

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Anushka Jha
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Remember The Devil Wears Prada, the iconic 2006 film starring Anne Hathaway and Meryl Streep? Miranda Priestly’s (Streep) cutting monologue explains that Andy’s (Hathaway) 'lumpy blue sweater' wasn’t just any sweater; it was cerulean, a shade selected years ago by high-end designers, which filtered through fashion weeks and eventually ended up in the clearance bin where Andy bought it.

Well, cut to 2025, and luxury's latest plot twist features a familiar protagonist: the Kolhapuri chappals, starring not in a bustling Indian bazaar but on Prada's Spring/Summer 2026 runway, renamed simply 'sandals'.

This isn’t the first time a global luxury brand has dipped into India’s style legacy. Dior hosted a runway show at Mumbai’s Gateway of India last year, spotlighting Indian artisans and textiles. Chanel has long sourced embroidery from Indian karigars. But Prada’s Kolhapuris hit differently.

At a price point estimated up to Rs 80,000 to 116,000. The Italian fashion house is charging nearly 10x the price of a high-quality handcrafted Kolhapuri from Maharashtra. The internet’s reaction? Equal parts amusement, outrage, and fascination.

"It feels like we exported culture, and now we're buying it back—at luxury markups," one Twitter user commented.

From Bandhani to ‘Scandi Scarves’—Prada’s Kolhapuris are no surprise

Imagine a world where there is no mention of France in the sale of croissants. Imagine marketing sushi without any reference to Japan.

Sounds absurd, right?

Now replace 'croissant' with Kolhapuri chappals, and you’ve got Prada’s latest drop: a Rs 116,000 'leather sandal' in its SS26 men’s collection. The design makes no reference to Kolhapur, Maharashtra, or the centuries-old Indian craftsmanship that inspired it.

Is this cultural appreciation? Or is luxury simply re-exporting India back to Indians, minus the credit and plus the price tag?

The Kolhapuris are just the latest case in a longer tradition of high-end rebranding:

Bandhani became 'avant-garde marbling' in a Western designer’s collection.

Pashmina from Kashmir? That’s “luxury Himalayan wool” now.

The humble dupatta has been marketed as a 'Scandinavian scarf'.

When locality becomes luxury abroad without the cultural footnote, it raises real questions about creative ownership and authenticity.

Meanwhile, Indian brands are going global

But here’s the twist: while foreign brands borrow from India, homegrown luxury is going global like never before.

Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta are Paris Couture Week regulars.

Falguni Shane Peacock has designed for Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, and Katy Perry, blending Indian craftsmanship with global glam.

Sabyasachi collaborated with Bergdorf Goodman (New York’s luxury retailer) and H&M for a global collection sellout.

Indian jewellery has lit up Cannes, the Met Gala, and even red carpets in LA.

While global luxury continues to rebrand and resell pieces of India, often minus the credit, homegrown labels are quietly rewriting the script.

So the question is: Will India stay the muse or finally take the spotlight as the maker of the moment?

 

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