Prada clarifies stance on Kolhapuri-style sandals after MACCIA complaint

The luxury label clarifies its Kolhapuri-style sandals are still in design stage, after MACCIA raises concerns over cultural credit and GI rights.

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afaqs! news bureau
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Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has officially responded to criticism over its use of footwear resembling Kolhapuri chappals in its Spring-Summer 2026 Men’s collection, acknowledging that the designs were inspired by traditional Indian craftsmanship.

The controversy began after Prada’s recent runway show featured leather sandals that bore a strong resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals — a heritage Indian product that holds Geographical Indication (GI) status. The brand’s original show notes, however, described the sandals generically, without any reference to their Indian origins. This sparked backlash from members of the Indian fashion fraternity and artisan groups in Maharashtra.

Responding to the matter, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s Head of Corporate Social Responsibility and son of the company’s owners, sent a formal letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), acknowledging the design’s origin.

“We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage,” Bertelli wrote in the letter, as reported by Reuters.

He also clarified that the sandals are still in an early design stage and may not be commercialised. Importantly, he noted that Prada is open to “dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans” and plans to arrange follow-up meetings to discuss the matter further.

A Prada spokesperson also confirmed the design’s inspiration separately, stating the company has “always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions.”

MACCIA had earlier raised concerns over the lack of attribution and alleged that the design's presentation without due credit could infringe upon the rights of traditional artisans, especially considering the GI tag associated with Kolhapuris. The chamber had also reached out to both state and central government authorities, urging them to take note of the matter.

While Prada’s acknowledgement may help ease tensions, the episode once again throws the spotlight on cultural borrowing in global fashion. As Indian craft forms increasingly influence luxury aesthetics, there’s growing demand for more responsible representation and tangible recognition of the communities behind them.

Prada Kolhapur
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