Post Kolhapuri sandal row, Prada looks to collaborate with Indian artisans

Italian luxury brand Prada has announced plans to collaborate with Indian "artisanal footwear" makers, following backlash over a new sandal design that resembled traditional Indian footwear. The announcement comes two weeks after Prada faced criticism for debuting open-toe sandals at a Milan fashion show that closely mirrored Kolhapuri chappals — ethnic leather sandals dating back to the 12th century and originating from Kolhapur, Maharashtra.

The resemblance sparked outrage among Indian artisans and cultural commentators, accusing the brand of cultural appropriation and failing to credit the design’s origins. In response, Prada acknowledged the influence of ancient Indian craftsmanship in its collection, as social media buzz and nationalist sentiment led to a surge in sales of traditional Kolhapuri sandals across India.

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On July 11, Prada said in a statement to Reuters that it held a virtual meeting with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, which represents around 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans. The discussions focused on exploring potential avenues for collaboration.

"The next step will be for Prada’s supply chain team to meet a range of artisanal footwear manufacturers," the company said.

The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce noted that Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada’s founders and head of corporate social responsibility at the brand, participated in the meeting. During the discussions, Prada reportedly expressed interest in launching a limited-edition "Made in India" sandal collection inspired by Kolhapuri designs, in partnership with Indian artisans.

While India’s luxury market remains relatively small, it is expanding, driven by a growing class of wealthy consumers splurging on high-end fashion, luxury cars, and premium watches. Prada currently has no retail presence in India, and its products are typically purchased by affluent Indians shopping abroad.

The controversy surrounding the sandals dominated social media in India for days, with a wave of criticism, memes, and calls from users and artisans for global recognition of Indian cultural heritage.